Monday, September 14, 2015

Turkey | Cappadocia | Göreme | Balloon Flight


Whenever I strike up a conversation with anyone in Göreme, the first question they ask is, “have you taken a balloon ride?” l quickly discovered that balloon rides are the main reason people come here. I talked to three people, two women and a man in their mid-twenties from Belgium, who had flown to Istanbul in the morning and then taken the 5:10 p.m. flight to Kayseri. From the Kayseri airport they took a bus to Göreme, where they stayed the night. They got up the next morning at 4:30 for a balloon flight and after the balloon flight went on the so-called Red Tour of the Cappadocia region, leaving Göreme at 9:30 a.m. and returning at 6:30 p.m. Then they took  the bus back to Kayseri, where they caught the 11:00 p.m. flight back to Istanbul. They planned to stay two days in Istanbul for a little shopping and sight-seeing and then fly back to Belgium. They claimed that the entire trip was planned around the balloon flight. Seeing as how everyone else was taking balloon rides it seemed downright churlish of me to come to Göreme and not take one myself. So I signed up for a flight.







There must be at least fifteen or twenty companies offering balloon flights in Göreme and competition between the various operators is fierce. I shopped around for a discount and, oddly enough, found one with a company that I later discovered is one of the most highly regarded in the region. The companies have this thing organized to the T. They pick you up at your hotel at 4:30 in the morning and whisk you to their offices, where a buffet breakfast is served. Then you are driven in a van to the take-off point, which apparently varies according to the winds that day. My company had two balloons taking off that morning, one with a 8-person gondola and one with a 16-person gondola. I had been told the 8-person gondola offered more space to maneuver for photos and a generally less crowded experience, but it also cost more. I signed up for the balloon with the 16-person gondola. As it turned out, there were only ten people in the gondola, so we actually had more space per person than the people in the 8-person gondola, which was full. On my ride were people from Turkey, France, Italy, China, and Korea.







Our pilot said he had no control over the direction the balloon took. We simply had to go with the prevailing breezes. But at different altitudes the breezes blew in different directions, so we could control our flight path somewhat by changing altitude. First we started out fairly low and drifted north-northeast over the village of Çavuşin, at the western end of the Red Valley. 




Our takeoff point. Several other companies were using the same site (click on photos for enlargements).




Drifting off towards Çavuşin, with the cliffs lining the Red Valley in the distance.




Drifting off towards Çavuşin






The village of Çavuşin.






Cave dwellings in the cliffs above Çavuşin






Cliffs over the village of Çavuşin.


Then we rose in altitude to catch the slight wind to the southwest. Soon we were approaching the village of Uchisar. 




Village of Uchisar in the distance




Village of Uchisar


Then we dropped in altitude and again drifted to the north, above the Love Valley.




The Love Valley


Actually I had walked to Love Valley from Göreme two days before.




Love Valley from ground level






Love Valley  from ground level






 Love Valley from ground level




Another view of Love Valley




Then we drifted over the White Valley




White Valley





Approaching our landing site

Before taking off the pilot had given us instruction on what to do in case of a hard landing. In the event it was not necessary. You could have put a full cup on coffee on the railing of the gondola before takeoff and not spilled a drop on the entire flight, including the landing.




The pilot landed the gondola directly on the blue trailer.




Happy ballooners preparing for the traditional post-flight champagne toast.

Turkey | Cappadocia | Göreme | Balloon Flight

Whenever I strike up a conversation with anyone in Göreme, the first question they ask is, “have you taken a balloon ride?” l quickly discovered that balloon rides are the main reason people come here. I talked to three people, two women and a man in their mid-twenties from Belgium, who had flown to Istanbul in the morning and then taken the 5:10 p.m. flight to Kayseri. From the Kayseri airport they took a bus to Göreme, where they stayed the night. They got up the next morning at 4:30 for a balloon flight and after the balloon flight went on the so-called Red Tour of the Cappadocia region, leaving Göreme at 9:30 a.m. and returning at 6:30 p.m. Then they took  the bus back to Kayseri, where they caught the 11:00 p.m. flight back to Istanbul. They planned to stay two days in Istanbul for a little shopping and sight-seeing and then fly back to Belgium. They claimed that the entire trip was planned around the balloon flight. Seeing as how everyone else was taking balloon rides it seemed downright churlish of me to come to Göreme and not take one myself. So I signed up for a flight.

There must be at least fifteen or twenty companies offering balloon flights in Göreme and competition between the various operators is fierce. I shopped around for a discount and, oddly enough, found one with a company that I later discovered is one of the most highly regarded in the region. The companies have this thing organized to the T. They pick you up at your hotel at 4:30 in the morning and whisk you to their offices, where a buffet breakfast is served. Then you are driven in a van to the take-off point, which apparently varies according to the winds that day. My company had two balloons taking off that morning, one with a 8-person gondola and one with a 16-person gondola. I had been told the 8-person gondola offered more space to maneuver for photos and a generally less crowded experience, but it also cost more. I signed up for the balloon with the 16-person gondola. As it turned out, there were only ten people in the gondola, so we actually had more space per person than the people in the 8-person gondola, which was full. On my ride were people from Turkey, France, Italy, China, and Korea.

Our pilot said he had no control over the direction the balloon took. We simply had to go with the prevailing breezes. But at different altitudes the breezes blew in different directions, so we could control our flight path somewhat by changing altitude. First we started out fairly low and drifted north-northeast over the village of Çavuşin, at the western end of the Red Valley. 
Our takeoff point. Several other companies were using the same site (click on photos for enlargements).
Drifting off towards Çavuşin, with the cliffs lining the Red Valley in the distance.
Drifting off towards Çavuşin
The village of Çavuşin.
Cave dwellings in the cliffs above Çavuşin
Cliffs over the village of Çavuşin.
Then we rose in altitude to catch the slight wind to the southwest. Soon we were approaching the village of Uchisar. 
Village of Uchisar in the distance
Village of Uchisar
Then we dropped in altitude and again drifted to the north, above the Love Valley.
The Love Valley
Actually I had walked to Love Valley from Göreme two days before.
Love Valley from ground level
Love Valley  from ground level
 Love Valley from ground level
Another view of Love Valley
Then we drifted over the White Valley
White Valley
Approaching our landing site
Before taking off the pilot had given us instruction on what to do in case of a hard landing. In the event it was not necessary. You could have put a full cup on coffee on the railing of the gondola before takeoff and not spilled a drop on the entire flight, including the landing.
The pilot landed the gondola directly on the blue trailer.
Happy ballooners preparing for the traditional post-flight champagne toast.

Tuesday, September 8, 2015

Turkey | Cappadocia | Göreme


Having sated, at least for the time being, my interest in Seljuq architecture, I wandered off to the town of Göreme, thirty-two miles to the west of Kayseri. To get there I took the city bus to the Kayseri airport, and then caught one of the many, many shuttle buses to Göreme and nearby towns. Including myself there were twelve people on my shuttle bus. Eleven of them were from China. For a second I thought I was back in Beijing. The bus took about forty-five minutes to get to Göreme. A ticket cost 20 lira ($6.65)





Göreme is in the middle of a region famous for its phantasmagorical landscapes carved from volcanic rock, cave houses and hotels, old Greek churches, and balloon rides. Göreme reportedly has a permanent population of only 2,000, and it is safe to say almost everyone is somehow connected with tourism (I have been told that a lot of people who work here actually live in nearby villages). The town consists entirely of hotels, restaurants, travel agencies, carpet stores, gift shops, and other businesses catering to tourists. The streets are teeming with tourists from all over, but especially from China, England, and Germany. 




 Hotel were I am staying (click on photos for enlargements)




 View from the roof top terrace of my hotel




 View from the roof top terrace of my hotel




 Cave hotels near my hotel




 One of the famous “fairy chimneys” of Göreme and surrounding region. Many were hollowed out and served as homes for people; some are still inhabited. Notice the window near the top of this one. 




View from the ridge behind my hotel. Hundreds of people climb up here everyday to watch the sunrise and sunset. 




 View from the ridge behind my hotel. 


Balloon rides are, of course, one of the most famous attractions of Göreme. They start just before dawn and last throughout the early morning. Later is often gets too windy for them. 








 Balloons launching just before dawn




Balloon launching






Balloon gondola






 Balloons launching just before dawn





 Balloons launching just before dawn




 Balloon riders catching the rising sun. At one point I counted sixty-eight balloons in the sky.



Sun rising




 Balloons over Göreme


Of course I am tempted to take a balloon ride myself, but they are not cheap: anywhere from $150 to $200 an hour. For the moment I have decided to pass. But I might change my mind. I would hate to think that one day, when I end up on my death bed, my final thought in this current incarnation might be, “Why oh why didn’t I take that balloon ride in Göreme?”




Balloons over Göreme